I don’t think people realise what an important part of our economy food and drink is,” says Elizabeth Truss, secretary of state for environment, food and rural affairs. “Or that one in eight people works in the industry,” she adds, talking a little louder because the room is rapidly filling up with food stalls, from 50 producers up and down the UK, each one selected by Defra as part of its 50 Food Stars initiative.
Not that the background noise will stop Truss getting her message across. She has fast earned a reputation for banging the drum for British food and drink with refreshing passion, and this is her latest project to boost exports of British produce, as well as increase consumption of British food at home.
“In the past we were not seen as a great food nation; people always think of France or Italy,” she says. “So there needs to be a catch-up in that perception. We are great at food. We produce some really innovative products, there are plenty of examples here today. It’s a hotbed, but there is more that we can do. We have kicked this event off today and we want to see things grow out of it. And I want to see the industry lead it.”
It plans to. The day was kicked off with a speech from CEO and chairman of Nestlé UK and Ireland (and FDF president) Dame Fiona Kendrick, who was joined by FDF interim director general Jim Moseley.
“Small enterprises are driving growth and innovation but can lack the resources to keep up to speed with industry developments or the technical or regulatory resources required to ensure a level playing field,” said Moseley. “We hope that our continued support will help these outstanding food and drink businesses boost growth even further.”
That support will include six months of mentoring, including technical and scientific advice, as well as regulatory and legislative support. The 50 Food Stars were also treated to a morning of inspirational talks from the likes of Justin King and Paul Lindley, on topics including accessing export markets, selling to supermarkets, branding and e-commerce.
But for now, it’s lunchtime. After a busy morning, everyone is hungry. And 50 food producers are preparing to show off exactly why they offer the best of British food. Little wonder the room is buzzing.
Not Dogs
“It’s my way of getting a hot dog fix,” says vegetarian Jane Whitehead. “And I don’t trust the meat in hot dogs,” adds carnivore Katie McDermott (left). Hence Not Dogs, which began life in March 2014. It quickly sealed exclusive rights to sell Quorn bratwurst sausages in the UK from its street food van, smothering the eight-inch whoppers with inventive toppings, which were rapturously received by hungry festival goers. And next month it opens its first pop-up shop, next to London Bridge station.
Halen Môn
Halen Môn (Halen is Welsh for salt, Ynys Môn is Welsh for Anglesey) began making salt in the crystal clear waters surrounding Anglesey after years spent wholesaling oysters and lobsters. It got a big break when the legendary Two Fat Ladies enthused about Halen Môn, then M&S came calling. Sales are about £1m and it employs 18 people. It now produces 10 varieties, is served in the world’s finest restaurants, and was recently awarded PDO status.
Ridgeview
“It was a bit of a joke but now it’s accepted that England can make wine,” says Simon Roberts. Particularly sparkling, he adds, saying his vineyard in the South Downs is “only 66 miles north of Champagne. And the soil is very similar.” Ridgeview produced its first bottle in 2000, and had hit 300,000 by 2014, winning prestigious awards along the way. “Take the risk,” is Roberts’ advice. “But it has to be calculated beyond next year. Plan ahead for 10.”
Three Little Pigs
“People said they didn’t like the chewy bits,” says co-founder Charlotte Clarkson of the deliberately smoother texture of Three Little Pigs chorizo. TLP already had a fresh pork business but diversified into the Spanish speciality in 2011 and now stocks independent stores, farm shops and Selfridges from its base in Yorkshire. “You read about how Spanish families have handed down the recipes over the years, but ours is spot on,” says Clarkson. “This event is a chance to meet buyers, but also the other producers. They are all facing the same issues we are, so we can compare notes.”
Pact Coffee
Founder Steven Rappaport dreamed up Pact Coffee after being forced to sip “overpriced, instant, sub-standard” coffee one morning. Since 2012 it’s attracted £2.5m in start-up investment and sends out a tonne of coffee every day, via Royal Mail. “Everyone else is in supermarkets, but we go through the post,” says Ed Grattan from Pact. “Coffee tastes better when it’s freshly roasted. The supermarket stuff has been sitting there for months and months.”
Norfolk Saffron
East Anglia doesn’t automatically spring to mind when you think of saffron, but the spice produced by Norfolk Saffron since 2009 carries the trademark pungent aroma, while a smoked variety delivers extra oomph. Founder Dr Sally Francis also makes saffron flour and liqueur. “It’s easy to grow saffron leaves but it’s very hard to grow saffron flowers,” says Francis. Being an Oxford-educated botanist with a doctorate in plant pathology has helped.
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