As the current fuss about St Paul’s demonstrates, Brits love a bit of costume drama, especially when it involves fops in frocks flouncing about in existential crisis before the baying hordes.

Arla has gone for Restoration glam-punk in its new ad for Castello - a smart ploy when the cheese, blue veined or otherwise, is ‘common or garden’ rather than genuinely blue-blooded.

Here the Marquis of Castello is a Casanova substitute ploughing his way through high society, with high camp the order of the day.It’s as colourful and cavalier as Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette, which laboured to reinvent the guileless guillotine-fodder as a fatalistic slave to fashion deserving her own tear-streaked Elton John tribute.

But this is far more fun, and the slab of cheese on a plate a more characterful lead than Kirsten Dunst was in her 10-gallon wig.

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