Just as journalist Sheila Dillon arrives in Catalonia for The Food Programme (Radio 4, 13 November, 3.30pm) the region’s parliament controversially declares independence from Spain, after a referendum besieged by rubber bullets and political boycotts, leaving her quest to uncover the regional identity through food that bit more pertinent.
After all, “food matters in Catalonia, more than in most places in the world.” When Catalan language, literature and music was banned during Franco’s regime, its distinct culture was lovingly preserved in recipes tucked away in the secrecy of the family home. While “British people have hobbies, Catalonians will eat.”
As tensions with central Spain have evolved so too has the cuisine, welcoming modern touches from Japan, Peru and China and reflecting the busy lives of its people. A historic Barcelonan market housed in 19th century architecture is packed with stalls selling fruits, vegetables, meats and cheese, but also salt fish ready-mixed into croquettes and chopped vegetables ready to chuck into omelettes. “A high- quality market that embraces the reality of modern life.”
At a restaurant this modern Catalan cuisine sees Dillon feasting on smoked oysters, poached brains, and leeks mixed in with chopped boiled eggs. It’s a complex, intriguing and innovative gastronomic picture she paints. One that blends the old with the new. And the worldly with the resolutely regional. A picture that offers a glimpse into the mindset of a region on the cusp of historic change.
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