Dry January is behind us but there’s still a thirst for the alcohol-free, satiated by Channel 4 and Alcohol-Free Booze: Is It Worth It? (7 February, 9pm).
Host Denise van Outen seemed sceptical: “Are we shelling out big bucks for what is essentially flavoured water?” she asked.
The costly cordial appraisal was investigated by strapping physician and co-host Dr Alex George, who has “embraced the brave new world” and been strictly low & no for two years. He took a boat to an artisan distillery to watch the manufacturing process. In short, taking out the boozy bit of a spirit requires some new, sciencey looking kit.
The unspoken implication seems to be that consumers should cover the cost of that kit – and pay close to full proof prices for alcohol-free alternatives. The fairness of this was never truly skewered.
The findings of the focus groups should put the frighteners up the big brands, though. Rating AF red wines, they considered Sainsbury’s own-label efforts among the best – at £3.25 versus the £15 typical of the category. On white, well, “the supermarkets smashed it again”.
Less alcohol being a good for your health is hardly a shock, but a doctor explained the full extent: among those doing Dry Jan, markers of diabetes risk improve by 25%. Meanwhile, a poor participant downed doughnuts and wine on an exercise bike, to demonstrate doing so might make you fat.
The jumble of segments felt slightly disjointed, but as a whole, they could well convince van Outen – and many others – to swap her beloved “rosé for a no-sé”.
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