The last thing the world needs is more cookbooks. It’s not just celebrity chefs who publish them these days: the likes of Fearne Cotton, Snoop Dogg and Kris Jenner have all jumped on the £90m-a-year cash cow. They even let Gregg Wallace do one.
That hasn’t put off Channel 4 though, which has commissioned Great Cookbook Challenge with Jamie Oliver (31 January, 8pm) in order to further clog the market.
The show’s first episode saw Oliver (at 24 tomes and counting, the UK’s bestselling cookbook author), mentor six cooks as they sought to impress a judging panel of two food writers – Jimi Famurewa and Georgina Hayden – plus publishing bigwig Louise Moore.
First up was surgeon Patrick, whose plan to put bread “front and centre” was, Oliver politely pointed out, “a complete reversal of everything history has told us”. His patience faced a sterner test in the form of YouTuber Calum, whom he diplomatically suggested might be “hard to manage”.
When it came to judging, it didn’t take much more than a subtle wince from Moore when presented with Patrick’s ‘…With Bread’ title for the concept to crumble. A single question from the deliciously deadpan publisher – undoubtedly the show’s star, sorry Jamie – similarly all but vaporised Katie’s ‘Ex Vegetarian’ idea.
Just two contestants made it through, with further batches to be dealt with in future episodes (though, let’s face it, there’s little jeopardy something saleable will be found). It’s interesting to learn about the challenges of publishing, but the very fact that the show’s quest is to find a lucrative idea – not necessarily the best food – leaves a slightly odd taste.
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