It’s a situation many of us have encountered over the past year – the arrival of the online order “with one substitution” (though this winter we may come to look back fondly upon the sunlit uplands of “one substitution”). Invariably it’s your favourite, or most essential product that’s missing.

This is definitely the case for the heroine of Heinz’s new ad, who is so bereft at the lack of Beanz in her delivery that her face drops and she takes off on a rampant odyssey to the corner shop, barging through her neighbours’ homes and gardens, all the while delivering a maniacal ode to her tinned treasures, like a demented preacher. In real life, you would avoid this person.

In another sign of the times, consumers are reminded baked beans are vegan – “they’re lean, supreme, plant-based protein cuisine”. There’s a subtle update to Heinz’s slogan, too – ‘Beanz meanz more’ now, apparently.

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