Everyone loves Ken Hom. He’s so smiley, and he cooks a mean Chinese, which is a brilliant combination. Ever so slightly more divisive is Julie Burchill, who appeared on Food & Drink (BBC2, 21 July, 8.30pm) to explain why big supermarkets are absolutely amazing.

“I love supermarkets,” she cooed. “People say we are destroying the planet and should support small shops but make mine mega every time. Small shops are all very well when you’re abroad with a wicker basket, but the Spanish don’t have to stagger through torrential rain for nine months of the year, do they?”

Perhaps not, but neither do we. The British weather might be a complete nutjob but it’s just as likely to be sunny for nine months as it is to be chucking it down, seeing as it does whatever the hell it likes.

“I love the lights, the rush and the exhilaration of the supermarket,” continued the easily entertained Burchill, before finally making a valid point. “Supermarkets give us food of the quality and variety that was once the reserve of the privileged. What’s not to love?”

Have you ever been in a supermarket with a toddler that won’t sit in the trolley, got to the till, forgotten the milk, then realised it’s miles away? I have never loved that.

The show’s presenter, Michel Roux Jr, went further. “They are killing the lifeblood of our cities. We will end up with a homogenised high street because of the supermarkets!”

Settle it for us, Hom. “There is room for everyone,” he smiled, benignly. Then he showed us his trick for perfect rice. No wonder we all love him.

Topics