While publicity is great for sustainable fishing, we must take care not to scare consumers off totally, says Mitch Tonks


The public have become a little more conscious of the state of our oceans in the past year, thanks to projects such as The End of the Line film. Faced with the prospect of the last fish being pulled from the ocean, people are now sitting up and taking a stance on sustainability.

These days there are so many stakeholders campaigning for their own individual causes: fishermen, environmental groups, food businesses, energy producers and even the public who enjoy the sea for leisure. But all fundamentally want the same thing well managed oceans and a future for fish.

Unfortunately, the communication of what fish we should and shouldn't eat has been a disaster and has left many ordinary people in a spin. Shock tactics may grab headlines, but they can have an entirely negative effect on consumers, prompting them to forego seafood, rather than make an informed choice. But this is not the way forward on the contrary, we need to continue to eat fish to ensure the industry is in good enough shape to be properly managed.

Sustainable behaviours are becoming central to so many aspects of our lives and it's easy to be carried away by the wonderful work of artisan producers. But while they play a vital role, with impeccable practices, real change will come from the big players that can lead in producing sustainable food that everyone can appreciate and afford.

I buy seafood from the fishing fleet in the south west. But on a national level, I'm also proud of my relationship with Young's Seafood, which has meaningful sourcing policies and is not afraid to interact with the fish industry at all levels to push for better practice. This approach has helped create real results and improvements, such as the UK's first ever MSC-certified sustainable langoustine from Stornoway. It also works with industry to encourage smarter and more sustainable fishing, for example in the Baltic cod fisheries.

Young's has also helped demystify sustainable seafood for consumers. It features the Fish for Life accreditation on all its packs, as determined by its guiding 10 Principles for Responsible Fish Procurement. This gives consumers a simple reassurance that the fish has been responsibly sourced regardless of species, provenance or whether it is wild or farmed.

Fish is more diverse than other proteins and while that is part of its appeal, it can also be confusing. So in 2007, we worked together to produce the Young's Lexicon of Fish a guide to the texture, aroma and taste of almost 100 key species on sale in Britain.

Now is the time for more major operators to take up programmes such as those spearheaded by Young's and force substantial changes in fisheries around the world, while at the same time working on clearer and simpler communications with consumers to restore confidence. Sustainable practice is the only way to safeguard the future of fish both now and for future generations.

Things are looking up for seafood at last. With bigger brands and retailers realising that long-term success isn't just about PR and marketing but about real action, 2010 could just be the year that fish becomes one of our first truly sustainable food industries.

Mitch Tonks is an award-winning chef and restaurateur.

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