Why Ottolenghi is betting on pilpelchuma as next harissa

Yotam Ottolenghi and Waitrose have proven a match made in heaven. Since launching into 275 Waitrose stores in April, the chef’s nine-strong range has enjoyed “unprecedented demand” – so much so that maintaining availability has been a challenge.

It’s no surprise Waitrose’s foodie base has lapped up the lineup. The products provide an easy ‘in’ for Ottolenghi, whose recipes tend to be heavy on complexity as well as flavour. At the same time, the flavour combinations, such as Rose & Lemon Harissa and Miso Pesto, go beyond run-of-the-mill cooking pastes and sauces – offering a hint of culinary adventure.

But harissa is increasingly becoming a mainstream ingredient. So this week, Ottolenghi has turned his attention to what he believes is the next big thing: Pilpelchuma Paste. It’s one of the three products to bolster the Ottolenghi range, on top of a Sticky Date & Tamarind Sauce and Roasted Aubergine & Tomato Sauce. Ottolenghi says he’s “particularly excited” about the pilpelchuma, which he tips as the next harissa.

It’s an ingredient that certainly taps all the right foodie trends. Pilpelchuma stems from Libyan cuisine, which is relatively unexplored in the UK. As Brits get ever more adventurous in their food choices – and start venturing into areas like Asian street food – new culinary horizons will no doubt hold an appeal.

As a chilli paste, pilpelchuma also plays to the growing appetite for spicy flavours. The blend of roasted red peppers, garlic, cumin and “a fiery hit of chilli” is said to create a “smoky and spicy” taste.

What’s more, it’s a versatile ingredient. Ottolenghi says it’s “ideal for enriching sauces and stews”, or as “a quick coating” for meat, fish or vegetables. One online recipe suggests simply spreading the paste over sweet potato slices and roasting in the oven. It’s a combination that offers culinary adventure without the need for culinary know-how.

If pilpelchuma does live up to the hype, it will be a win for both Ottolenghi and Waitrose. The chef will reinforce his status as a culinary trend-setter. Meanwhile, Waitrose will be the first mainstream retailer to stock what could be the next big thing – cementing its position as a first mover on foodie trends, which it has sought to do with ranges like Japan Menyu.

So keep an eye out for pilpelchuma: the chilli paste could pack a punch that is well above its weight.