Sir: I am astounded by the arrogance and absurdity of Roger Banks' letter (January 19) which complains of the lack of English (whatever happened to British) food in his newly adopted homeland, France, which to his knowledge seems to be the "only country in the world" with this sad deficiency. Clearly his geography is as atrocious as his embrace of his new culture, and he has failed to grasp the very principle of ex-patriatism. Imagine the outrage were a Frenchman to whinge in similar terms that he cannot get his Jacques Vabre coffee, his rillettes or his horsemeat pâté in the local supermarket in rural England. Having spent the past two years researching the European food market for the retail sector, I can state quite categorically that Mr Banks is, at best, very difficult-to-please. At worst, he is talking gibberish. In spite of the huge obstacles which British exporters have faced during the past few years of economic concern due to the strength of the pound, the major UK brands have sustained their presence in markets overseas at significant commercial risk. Nevertheless, business is business. No manufacturer will contort its supply chain to serve a relatively small market without guaranteed consistency of demand ­ and profit. Retailers will face similar dilemmas of feasibility. However, of all the products listed as favourites, I am certain that there are close equivalents widely available, and Mr Banks should simply take a dictionary with him when he shops. "Faute de grives on mange des merles". Or, as we say in English: "When in Rome ­" Sandy Robson Freelance researcher Lilbourne Near Rugby {{LETTERS }}

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