I spent last week lecturing in Malta which has applied to join the EU along with Poland, Slovenia and others. Signor Prodi was there, much feted as the big cheese. The Maltese are split on party lines about whether to join or not. It reminded me of the 1960s and 1970s when the UK prevaricated about whether to "go in". From a food perspective, Malta's impact will be small. Its wine will be a drop in the EU lake. Its dairy herd is tiny compared to Poland. Its fruit and olive production minimal. But, oh, the taste of the oranges! A reminder that good food in season is gorgeous. The Netherlands already buys almost all its spring potato crop. The potatoes were lovely, too. With tourism its main business, Malta imports quite heavily. Nothing new. In World War 2, the British were almost blocked into starvation despite the fertile soils, and were only saved when the people of Gozo were persuaded to release family stocks. Gastronomically, the British left their mark. Malta's Mediterranean culinary roots were damaged by a model of what not to do. British confectionery and custard powders went into the shops. So Malta now has a terrible problem with diabetes and heart disease. A vast new hospital is being built with fancy equipment ­ a reminder that "cheap" food externalises its costs onto health budgets. If only the government could encourage a shift back to a more traditional Mediterranean diet, and get farmers to grow that rather than a focus on a globodiet, then healthcare costs would come down. But in this respect, I have good news. The French who take over the EU presidency in July are making food and nutrition a priority area. In May, at a meeting in Crete ­ whose famously healthy diet is also changing with tourism ­ a two year process to set EU dietary guidelines comes to fruition. Welcome to the battlefield, Malta! {{NEWS }}

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