Stilon has surged in popularity this year with younger consumers, despite concerns in recent years it was losing ground in the cheese aisle.
Sales of what the sector calls ‘the king of British cheeses’ collapsed by a third during the Covid pandemic and have continued to struggle ever since – with the downturn prompting Arla to close is Melton Mowbray stilton creamery over the summer, due to “a continuing decline” in the UK specialty cheese market.
Stilton volumes were down 6.2% year on year in the 12 months to 12 May [NIQ], with value sales in the major supermarkets slipping by 3.2% to £46.8m.
But since the spring, sales had picked up rapidly, said cheesemaker Long Clawson Dairy, citing more recent Kantar data [52 w/e 29 September], which showed value sales were up 6%, with volumes (kg) up 2% and units sold up 4%.
Other British blues were also performing strongly (with value up 10% and volumes up 19%), contributing to growth in the category and outperforming continental blue sales (up 4% in value and down 1% in volume), Long Clawson noted.
That recovery had accelerated in the 12 weeks to 29 September, it added, with younger consumers “embracing the artisanal quality and unique taste” of stilton, it suggested.
The dairy’s managing director, Bill Mathieson also attributed stilton’s rising popularity to the younger generation’s adventurous palate and the creativity of influencers, marking a turnaround in the attitudes of once “reluctant” younger shoppers.
TikTok recipes include salads, burgers and even cocktails to encourage more consumption of the blue cheese.
Long Clawson is featured in next week’s episode of BBC Two’s Inside the Christmas Factory, in which presenter Cherry Healey learns about the artisanal process behind the supplier’s 1912 blue stilton brand.
Healey works alongside master cheesemaker Steve Smith, learning the methods of hand-grading and maturing stilton – a process that takes 14 weeks.
Stilton is particularly prized during the festive season, with its creamy texture enhanced by the “rich, full-fat autumn milk” used in production, Long Clawson said.
“We’re thrilled to feature in Inside the Christmas Factory, celebrating the best of British food and drink at Christmas,” added Mathieson. “With younger and older generations alike embracing stilton, we’re looking forward to a stellar season.”
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