Oonagh Wade, 33, is senior commissioning editor at an educational publishing company in Oxford. The 1920s kitsch oriental image on the bottle looks a bit tacky and the Dame of Shanghai sounds like the name of a prostitute. However, the wine looks vibrant and bubbly in the glass and the pale yellow colour makes it look sophisticated and promising like a good champagne ­ but the smell puts you off straight away. It smells really acrid and weird, like damp straw or nettles. The taste is initially quite pleasant but then it becomes quite acidic and stern and it has a powerful, bitter kick to it at the end. It is really overpriced. I wouldn't pay £20 for it as the idea is a bit gimmicky, odd and seedy and I don't really think it works. Rating out of 25 ­ 12 {{DRINKS }}

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