From Vintage Roots. An organic italian which hopes to revitalise the fortunes of this wine style TARGET CONSUMER Liz Cloud, 31, works in communications research and lives in south London. I I like the gold wire round the bottle, which makes the wine look more expensive. The colour is light, clear and fresh and it smells a bit like melon or lychees. In fact, the bouquet is a lot sweeter than the taste, which reminds me of lettuce. The wine is slightly fizzy and it has rather an acidic aftertaste. But I like it and at 12% it's not too strong. I'd be attracted by the fact that it's organic as it's reputed not to give you as much of a hangover. But I think it's a shame that the label doesn't shout about the fact that the wine is organic. The design is a bit naff and old fashioned and I think they should make a bit more of an effort to differentiate it for the organic market. Rating out of 25 ­ 17 The expert: Sally Easton Master of Wine and wine buyer for Berry Brothers and Rudd This has a bright straw colour with green tinges. The nose is a blend of lemon citrus, white pepper, yeast and melon and this is reflected on the palate. The acidity is fresh and zesty with a good intensity of fruit character including a typical slight nuttiness to the back palate. The wine is well balanced. It finishes with a faint bitter note which spoils an otherwise interesting wine. The fact that it is made from organically grown grapes is incidental to an assessment of quality, but it does not detract. The bottle comes with a wire mesh more typical of Rioja which may be confusing to some. Success rating out of 25 ­ 15 The designer: Graham Shearsby Board creative director, graphics, at Design Bridge An interesting little number. The bottle is enrobed in what is traditionally a Spanish hallmark wire net, with no organic statement whatsoever on the front illustration and some polite typography. This is hardly going to set the world on fire or inspire reappraisal of this once dominant wine style. Apart from anything else there are some fantastic Italian labels around that truly challenge the traditional clichés. The Super Tuscans have certainly perked up the image of the Old World and I would urge Casale Mattia to learn from their neighbours in the north. Success rating out of 25 ­ 7 The buyer: Steve Mayes Category controller at Landmark What is going on here? A very confused Frascati. Putting a retail of £5.49 on a £3.99 wine is having a laugh. It is trying to modernise the traditional presentation but the bottle is then bound by some horrible twee gold wire. It claims to be organic with massive understatement ­ a small reference on the back label. If the rsp is inflated to cover the cost of ethical production, at least let the front label shout loud about it. Italy makes fantastic easy drinking entry level white wines ­ this Frascati is not one of them. Nice liquid, dodgy presentation, outrageously expensive. Success rating out of 25 ­ 5 Total score out of 100 - 44 {{DRINKS }}

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