Jokes are all well and good, but pies can be healthy – and they contribute £1bn to the economy, says Neil Court-Johnston


Pies have been the subject of British humour for decades. Ever since Mr Pastry appeared on the BBC in the 1950s, pies have been making people laugh.

Even now, when a footballer takes to the pitch with a slightly less than sleek body, the chant rings out, "Who ate all the pies?"

And, of course, pies are depicted on soaps such as EastEnders and Coronation Street as the food of the unhealthy working classes. Even celebrity chefs have jumped on the pastry-bashing bandwagon and condemned pies as unwelcome additions to the diets of our children, as if we are somehow bad parents if we include them.

Now, I don't mind pies being the butt of jokes occasionally, it's just that there are so many unchallenged misconceptions about pies, pastry and the industry as a whole, because the truth tends to get in the way of a good story... and a good laugh.

"But pies ARE unhealthy," I hear you shout. Well, it may surprise you to learn that some 'healthy' sandwiches bought on the high street can contain more than 600 calories and more preservatives and additives than you can shake a French stick at. Many of our pastries, in comparison, are in the 400 to 500 calorie range.

However, this misses the key point. It is confusing and disingenuous to attempt to label all foods as 'good' or 'bad'. Instead it's about getting the balance right, eating in moderation and keeping active.

If we do this, we can happily eat some of the things we actually want to eat. And since a pie is a self-contained meal and more filling than many other snacks, we're more likely to be satisfied and stop at one!

Better still, in an increasingly Americanised fast food market, we have something wholesome, home-produced and healthier than it's ever been. In the past five years, the British pie industry has moved a long way in cleaning up its act. Hydrogenated fats, E-numbers, artificial flavours and preservatives are all fast disappearing while salt levels have been significantly reduced. The best British pies are in effect a simple, tasty casserole of two or three key ingredients with a lid.

The companies leading this natural revolution, such as Peter's, Holland's, Pie Minister and Ginsters, all have products that have retained a traditional simplicity. On the other hand, producers of many ready meals are struggling to piece together 20 component parts in a mechanical process that culminates in the addition of artificial flavours to add a little taste.

Do I feed pies to my young children? Absolutely, but I also ensure that they get lots of exercise and a balanced diet. In fact, I would rather have them eat the occasional pie as a treat than sweets or hamburgers.

So despite all the negative publicity, pie and pastry companies are doing well. The key reason for this is that the industry generally provides the British public with high-quality food at reasonable prices. The industry contributes in excess of £1bn per year to the UK economy, making it a major player with genuine potential for rapid growth.

The 'food police' and celebrity chefs may have their own agenda, but we have a real opportunity to broaden the appeal of savoury pastry. Other countries and cultures have a very different perception of pastry and a wider customer base.

A balanced debate would serve as a timely catalyst.

Neil Court-Johnston is MD of Peter's Food Services