Tesco has taken a lead on the cork issue, but others linger
So the Royals prefer the sound of popping corks, judging by Prince Charles' pronouncement earlier this year about "nasty plastic plugs". And that's fine, as long as they don't shop at Tesco.
The chain has been instrumental in giving the issue of closures a mainstream platform by ditching cork across 5% of its range in favour of Stelvin screwcaps. Tesco moved the debate on from the trade's justified preoccupation with levels of cork taint and put the choice squarely in the hands of the consumer.
According to Tesco, 1.4 million screwcapped bottles were sold in the first eight weeks of the change, the equivalent of 5% of its total wine sales.
The result of Tesco's decision has been an award for innovation and creativity at this year's International Wine Challenge. More importantly, Tesco has persuaded some Old World producers to convert to Stelvin closures, notably Duboeuf and Calvet.
Southcorp has been a strong supporter of the initiative, although winemaker Philip Shaw admits to initial reservations. "We all knew we were doing the right thing by the product and for consistency but we were all wondering if we were doing the right thing by the consumer," he says. "We don't mind cork, but consumers want consistency. The thing that we don't yet know is how many consumers get turned off by screwcaps."
Shaw is holding back on screwcaps for red wines until Southcorp is convinced the wines perform better. And so is Sainsbury. Says Allan Cheesman, Sainsbury's director of wines: "We have to be convinced it's the best thing to do. We have the best closure people in the country researching it, but it's a long process."
Other producers are sitting on the fence for fear of scaring away their loyal customer base. Pernod Ricard commercial director Ian Tottman says: "We are considering where we should go, but there's no way Jacob's Creek is going to take the plunge with anything other than cork. We're into natural closures that fit naturally with a traditional brand like Jacob's Creek. Screwcaps still have an association in the UK with cheap wine."
Beringer Blass, which has the Australian Wolf Blass brand positioned in the £6.99-plus price bracket, is also unsure if its customers are ready for screwcap. MD John Shortt says: "We'll wait to see how consumers further down the line respond. It's easier at the top end.
"If you're buying a bottle of wine for £9.99, you understand that producers are doing it for quality."
New Zealand producer Villa Maria has switched 90% of its wines to screwcaps after research showed greatest support came from purchasers of expensive wine. It believes confidence will filter down.

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