Top launch: Lash Sensational - Maybelline
This ‘lash multiplying mascara’ from Maybelline hit cosmetic counters in January featuring the brand’s first ‘layer reveal brush’, with inner bristles to capture tiny lashes alongside outer brushes aimed at adding volume to longer lashes. The biggest single NPD in cosmetics this year, the mascara has clocked up more than £6.3m in sales since launch, successfully tapping the trend for ‘big eyes’. A waterproof variant was added to the portfolio in May to keep the sales momentum going.
But first, let me take a selfie. The culture of snapping one’s self at every turn is one of the trends that has contributed to the cosmetics category’s good looks: sales are up £59.3m.
That’s according to Nielsen senior health & beauty client manager Helen Beddow, who says there’s growing evidence that women are splashing out more on their make-up to ensure they’re always camera ready. That’s not all. Vloggers, such as those that feature in Avon’s latest TV ads, have helped boost sales by encouraging more complex routines.
“Consumers have more info at their fingertips on how to use cosmetics and are becoming more confident in using a variety of types,” says Beddow, explaining the growing number of products in baskets per trip.
An example of this is concealer. The subsector has been the biggest contributor to growth, adding £12.1m; eyebrow make-up added £10.6m and lip colour £10.3m. NPD has played its part, with Maybelline Brow Satin and Rimmel Provocalips 16Hr racking up £2.8m and £2.7m respectively since launch in September 2014.
Innovation contributed £95.1m to the overall cosmetic market’s £816m value, a significant increase on last year’s £81.3m. Mascara, the second-biggest sub-sector after foundation, benefited from a strong performance by products including Rimmel Wonder’full, and grew 1.5% to £137.8m. Maybelline will be hoping its ‘lash multiplying mascara’ Lash Sensational (see Top Launch below), will contribute to further growth in 2016.
In foundation, up 2.1% to £155.3m, Max Factor tapped the continuing trend of ‘no make-up make-up’ with the recent Miracle Match Foundation launch, pitched as the ‘ultimate nude’ shade. Max Factor’s steady stream of innovation has attracted new shoppers and is a key driver behind the brand’s 3% growth, says Becky Godall, P&G commercial leader, Northern Europe, cosmetics. “The lifeblood of the cosmetics industry lies behind providing a constant stream of meaningful innovation at a relevant price.”
Across cosmetics, average prices rose 1.9% to £4.61 per item but the impressive performance from Superdrug’s value brand MUA, which has an average £1.63 tag, suggests an increasing demand for cheaper items. This, however, was not reflected in the poor performance of L’Oréal’s Maybelline Baby Lips collection which, despite its attractive sub-£3 price point, endured a 57.1% decline.
“Rationalisation in categories like cosmetics can damage the market and this leaves the door open to another channel like high street retail or other new players to enter the category,” says Stijn Demeersseman, L’Oréal UK commercial operations general manager. To keep cashing in on the selfie culture, contend many, ranges will need to be maintained.
TOP 20 Cosmetics | SALES | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
£m | change (£m) | change (%) | ||||
Total volume change: 5.7% | Total Category | 816.4 | 59.3 | 7.8 | ||
Total Own Label | 43.9 | –0.7 | –1.6 | |||
1 | 1 | Rimmel | Coty | 201.9 | 11.1 | 5.8 |
2 | 2 | Maybelline | Garnier | 129.6 | 10.4 | 8.7 |
3 | 3 | Max Factor | P&G | 100 | 2.8 | 2.9 |
4 | 4 | L’Oréal | L’Oréal | 85.9 | 5.3 | 6.6 |
5 | 6 | Bourjois | Coty | 40.6 | 3.7 | 10 |
6 | 5 | Collection 2000 | Collection 2000 | 36.8 | –1.4 | –3.7 |
7 | 8 | Revlon | Revlon | 28.2 | 0.9 | 3.3 |
8 | 7 | Barry M | Barry M Cosmetics | 26.3 | –1.4 | –5.0 |
9 | 9 | Sally Hansen | Coty | 15.2 | 1.9 | 14.6 |
10 | 10 | Makeup Academy | Makeup Academy | 10.9 | 2.4 | 28 |
11 | 12 | Sleek | Sleek | 9.7 | 2.4 | 33.4 |
12 | 11 | Miss Sporty | Coty | 7.5 | –0.2 | –3.2 |
13 | 18 | Essence | Cosnova | 6.6 | 4.7 | 241.2 |
14 | 27 | Makeup Revolution | Medichem | 6.5 | 5.9 | 957.7 |
15 | 14 | Essie | Essie | 5.8 | 0.7 | 13.1 |
16 | 13 | Gosh | Gosh Cosmetics | 5.5 | 0.4 | 7.8 |
17 | 30 | Jml | John Mills | 4.7 | 4.3 | 954.3 |
18 | 15 | Nyc New York Color | Coty | 3.7 | –0.8 | –17.5 |
19 | 16 | 2True | Aventor Beauty | 2.4 | –0.8 | –25.1 |
20 | 20 | OPI | OPI Products | 1.7 | 0.1 | 8.3 |
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