Gordon Ramsay has had a nightmare with his hair, hasn’t he? Imagine his reaction when the barber showed him the back of his head in the mirror? The poor man is probably still trembling. God help anyone that nips in for a quick shave.

Anyway, as well as being a brilliant chef, Ramsay has always been entertaining on TV. He’s been yelling at Americans for ages, but no one runs a hopeless restaurant quite like a hapless Brit, so I was delighted to see him return on Costa Del Nightmares (C4, 9pm, 23 September), featuring a bunch of ex-pats who once went on holiday, spent all week drinking, and realised how much better life would be if they jacked it all in back home and opened a business in the sunshine.

Brilliant booze-fuelled plans don’t always work out. Jack and Pat used to run a restaurant in the UK but moved to Spain 28 years ago to open the Mayfair. It’s now losing £30k a year. “They eat once, they don’t come again,” said Jack’s son, who turned out to be even more of a liability than his father.

“I’m amazed you haven’t killed anybody,” screeched Gordon when he saw the kitchen. He refused to eat until the place had been bleached, but the food was beyond help. Gordon was “panicking.” Then he swung into action.

Very often in life, the correct response in a crisis is to reach for some fried chicken. Jack and Pat were thrilled with their refurbished ‘Jack’s Chicken Shack’ and so were their customers. It was a brilliant comeback by Ramsay. And by the end, his hair had started to grow back, too.