Just a few minutes into episode five of Netflix’s new live cooking show, Dinner Time Live with David Chang (available now), and I’m already drifting off.
In a loft-style kitchen, Chang prepares dinner for a scruffy Seth Rogen and some lesser celebrity. Rogen sips a martini with olive, and there’s something red for the other guy. A negroni, one imagines – and there’s plenty of time to imagine, given their stream of inconsequential banter.
Then comes the reveal of a soup bowl-sized box of caviar that costs the equivalent of a semester of college tuition, we’re told. The guests chatter. Five minutes later, they get two bowls full of caviar to slurp while they await fried chicken.
Eleven minutes in, the point of all this has yet to become clear. To be fair, for the streamer’s first foray into “live” cooking, the cooking does at least seem live. But already, the shortcomings of the format – there’s a good reason why programmes are condensed into just the interesting bits – are apparent.
In this ‘High-Low Menu’ episode, highbrow cuisine with lowbrow favourites are smashed together, but it soon devolves into Chang slathering caviar over everything: chips with fried eggs, nori rolls with wagyu beef and wagyu beef strips. In real time, it looks more like a kitchen experiment (“how much of Netflix’s money can we burn in 58 minutes” is a running joke) than cooking wizardry from the founder of Momofuku.
Even the guests appear tired of the excess – Rogen asks about a “Roman-style vomitorium”. I’ve had enough.
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