The Great British Bake Off’s huge success is in part to its heavy lean on the title’s third word. Bunting, Berry and bottoms (of the soggy variety) have given it a cosy charm that resonates globally.
Will a new US-style rip-off work? The American-ness in Netflix’s attempt begins with the title: Blue Ribbon Baking Championship (available now). Our friends across the pond don’t say ‘riband’.
The show recalls “the great American state fair” in place of Bake Off’s village fete vibe, placing its (noticeably more immodest and nakedly competitive) contestants in a homely barn, instead of a tent.
Its host is actor Jason Biggs, insanely dressed for episode one in pink, blue and orange. He leads with the fact that he’s had a banana bread recipe published in a cookbook, but he’s most famous for having sex with the titular pastry in the film American Pie – and to the show’s credit it takes only two minutes for this to be referenced.
Head judge, chef Sandra Lee, gives the hopefuls their first challenge: “food on a stick”. A significant amount of deep-frying and a lot of sugar follows, with Long Islander Larry’s ‘potato candy’ and Lois’s ‘hand pie’, from Michigan, offering insight into their states’ food cultures.
Despite the tricky stick element, the entries are tediously competent. So it’s a relief when the second challenge – layer cakes – inspires some classic Bake Off-style mild peril. Eileen breaks a glass bowl! Kim’s frosting is a bit runny! Someone gets the boot! It’s a comfortingly familiar recipe.
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