The Waitrose muffin (two stars) was the weakest of the lot; it was very floury and rather doughy, an effect not helped by its oddly synthetic aftertaste.

More pleasing was the effort from Asda (three stars), which had a good flavour but emerged from the toaster flat and a tad lifeless. The Morrisons muffin (three stars) also tasted good, but its chewy, bagel-like consistency made it more of a chore to get through than comfort food should be.

The Tesco offering (three stars) smelt great from the toaster but had surprisingly little flavour - much ado about muffin, you might say.

That left the flavoursome Sainsbury's muffin (four stars) as the pick of the bunch. It was perhaps a shade saltier than the others, but not prohibitively so, and offered the best texture.